October is almost done and with it comes my favorite season of the year, fall. With it, seasonal produce that should inspire any young cook's imagination to start creating new dishes, and re-creating some older ones. Pumpkins, squashes, apples, pears, cured pork products, wine, aged cheeses, holiday spices, sage, rosemary, mushrooms, quince, and plenty of hearty dishes come to mind once this time of the year comes around.
On this occasion I decided to create a fall inspired dish that I felt captured the diverse ingredients and flavors of the harvest season, fall. First ingredient that came to mind was the infamous butternut squash, also known as the butternut pumpkin. This orange/yellow cousin of the pumpkin, has a sweet and nutty flavor, perfect for the holidays. Following that train of thought, I thought of pumpkin pie, and the spices that traditionally are associated with this holiday treat. Who can't close their eyes at this point and imagine the scent of nutmeg and cinnamon? So it is at this point I decided to go old world with this one, maybe Italian, maybe German, don't know yet. Never having made the attempt before, I decided to give gnocchi a fair try. Traditionally made with potatoes, I opted for butternut squash. Once the main ingredient was established, I opted for my favorite vegetable in the world, bacon. Although clearly not a vegetable, cured salted pork belly has infinite possibilities and has been a staple in both cuisines for some serious time my friends. The next obvious choice was bacon and onions, but I didn't want to utilize just any onions, I always tend to lean to the sweeter, more complex flavor that only a shallot can impart. Again, thinking old world, I went with a vegetable that has been utilized in old world cuisine for centuries, the brussel sprout. Known for its cabbage-like appearance and odor, it can actually be a tasty one if cooked properly and treated with due respect. As you should with everything we prepare and eat.
Now everyone that knows me or my cooking style would not be surprised by me turning this dish into a savory one with the addition of California grapes into the mix. The way I visualized it, I have salty, bitter, sweet, crunchy, soft covered, how do i throw it off a bit? Roasting the grape varieties I purchased would concentrate its natural flavors and characteristics. Sweetness and tartness would add the right "pop" of flavor that I was looking for.
It took about an hour or so to put this dish together from scratch, and with the help and input of fellow blogger Brian, and pastry chef Andreas I think it turned out to be a pretty successful dish with a few changes here and there. Changing from gnocchi, to spatzle, and utilizing uncured bacon, the final product turned out to be something I was happy with. Soft, savory dumplings of butternut squash, with a mild taste of nutmeg and cinnamon matched the natural nuttiness of the squash . The earthiness from the melange of mushrooms, gave it a slightly more authentic old world flavor; the combination of bacon, onions and brussels emphasized on that theme. Throwing it all off, or together, who knows, are the grapes, adding that touch of tartness it seemed to need. Finished off with brown butter and sage, it was a simple, yet clean, adding more notes of that earthy/nutty flavor usually associated with the traditional Italian gnocchi. (Note: I purchased a bottle of Mezzacorona moscato from Italy, containing an intense nose of tropical fruit, and notes of nutmeg and cinnamon. Perfect for pairing with seasonal flavors.)
Been thinking about adding a red wine poached egg on top, or maybe a decent-sized medallion of foie gras to the dish to add yet another element of flavor and appeal. We will see where these ideas take it as this dish progresses with much thought and revision.
Ingredients used:
-butternut squash
-petite brussel sprouts
-shallots
-california grape variety (green and red)
-shiitake, cremini, and oyster mushrooms
-applewood smoked uncured bacon
-unsalted sweet cream butter
-olive oil
-sage, thyme
Prep and execution time: about and hour.
Pairings: Mezzacorona moscato 2008, Unibroue Ephemere ale(apple and curacao peel ale, 5.5%alc./vol), and Hevelius Kaper ( Polish strong pale lager/imperial pilsner)
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